Straight answers, sourced

The Research

Everything we claim on our pages, and the source behind it. We would rather you check than take our word.

Sweet birch

Sweet birch is the one essential oil in Soothe Salve, and it is here for what it does rather than how it smells. It naturally contains methyl salicylate — the compound in the same family as aspirin, and the one behind generations of warming liniments.[1]

If you look that compound up, you will find alarming things. Here is what they actually are.

What has gone wrong, and under what conditions

Concentration. The FDA permits methyl salicylate in over-the-counter external analgesics — sports rubs and warming liniments — at 10 to 60 percent.[2] That is the product class in the case reports. Ours is a trace at the end of a five-ingredient list.

Surface area. A review of topical salicylate toxicity found 25 documented cases across nearly fifty years. Product was applied over 40 to 80 percent of the body.[3] A tin of salve goes on hands, knuckles and heels.

Repetition. The documented interaction with blood thinners comes from patients who massaged themselves with salicylate liniment daily for months.[4]

And the classic poisoning hazard is not a cream at all. It is oil of wintergreen, roughly 98 percent methyl salicylate, swallowed.[1]

High concentration. Most of a body. Every day. For months. Change any one of those and the picture changes completely.

What the dose looks like next to ordinary things

The EPA rates methyl salicylate's acute toxicity through skin — the route that matters for a salve — in Category IV, its lowest hazard band.[5]

By mouth it is four to six times less acutely toxic than caffeine.[5]

It is also generally recognized as safe as a food flavoring, and permitted in chewing gum at a level far above what a salve delivers to skin.[5] People chew that for twenty minutes and swallow the saliva.

Where the low European limits come from

The European Union caps methyl salicylate in leave-on cosmetics well below US practice, and does not permit it in cosmetics intended for children under six.[6] It is a real limit set by a serious regulator and we would rather you heard it from us than found it.

It is worth knowing why it exists. The UK's published scientific opinion shows the review was triggered by a hazard reclassification — methyl salicylate was categorized as a suspected reproductive toxicant, the weakest of three evidence tiers — which under European law restricts a substance in cosmetics until a committee sets permitted levels. The committee then derived those levels from margin-of-safety modeling on animal data, and cites no evidence of consumer harm from cosmetic use.[7]

The United States sets no equivalent cosmetic limit. Two serious regulatory systems read the same evidence and reached different numbers.

Where we hold ourselves

We use one essential oil, below the maximum adult dermal use level given in the standard reference for essential oil safety.[1]

And one thing that cuts against us, which you should have anyway: methyl salicylate is itself classified as a skin sensitizer, in the lower-potency category.[7] We cannot tell you that essential oils sensitize and ours does not. We can tell you that we use one instead of twenty-four, and that we will tell you which one.

The rest of the page

Beeswax works as an occlusive, an emollient and a humectant. One ingredient covering three jobs, which is why a short list can still do a complete job.[8]

Petroleum jelly acts as a seal and nothing else. It contains no ceramides, no cholesterol and no fatty acids — none of the material your skin builds its barrier from — so it cannot become part of that barrier.[9]

Oxidized linalool and limonene are among the most common causes of cosmetic skin reactions in Europe. Patch testing in consecutive dermatitis patients finds positive reactions in roughly 5 to 7 percent, judged clinically relevant in about two thirds of them.[10]

The EU requires certain fragrance compounds to be named on the label. The list began at 26 and has since been expanded.[6]

Most lotions are more than two-thirds water. Beauty products average 60 to 85 percent water; lotions sit at the top of that range, because a thinner product holds more water.[11]

Sources
1. Tisserand R, Young R. Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed. Maximum adult dermal use level for sweet birch; methyl salicylate content of birch (~90%) and wintergreen (~98%). Summary: ologyessentials.com
2. US FDA, OTC Monograph M017 — External Analgesic Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use, § M017.12(a)(3): methyl salicylate permitted at 10 to 60 percent as a counterirritant. accessdata.fda.gov
3. Madan RK, Levitt J. A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014;70:788–92. Full text (PDF)
4. Ramanathan M. Warfarin–topical salicylate interactions: case reports. Med J Malaysia. 1995;50(3):278–9. Full text (PDF) · See also Joss JD, LeBlond RF. Ann Pharmacother. 2000;34(6):729–33. PubMed
5. US EPA, Reregistration Eligibility Decision for Methyl Salicylate, November 2005. Acute dermal LD50 (rabbit) >5000 mg/kg, Toxicity Category IV; acute oral LD50 (rat) 887–1250 mg/kg; FEMA GRAS status and permitted food use levels. epa.gov
6. EU Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as amended by Omnibus Act V (17th ATP), in force 17 December 2022. Leave-on skin limit and the under-six prohibition; fragrance allergen labelling list. Summary: cosmeservice.com
7. UK Scientific Advisory Group on Chemical Safety in Consumer Products, Final Opinion on Methyl Salicylate in Cosmetic Products. Reproductive toxicant category 2; skin sensitiser category 1B; derived leave-on limit; margin-of-safety basis. Full opinion (PDF)
8. Nong Y, Maloh J, Natarelli N, Gunt HB, Tristani E, Sivamani RK. A review of the use of beeswax in skincare. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2023;22(8):2166–2173. doi:10.1111/jocd.15718
9. Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The role of moisturizers in addressing various kinds of dermatitis: a review. Clin Med Res. 2017;15(3–4):75–87.
10. Ogueta IA, Brared Christensson J, Giménez-Arnau E, et al. Limonene and linalool hydroperoxides review: pros and cons for routine patch testing. Contact Dermatitis. 2022;87(1):1–12. doi:10.1111/cod.14064
11. NATRUE, Water in cosmetics: a dive into water-free beauty. Beauty products average 60–85% water. natrue.org